The introduction of retinoic acid and alpha hydroxy acids to skincare products marks the first time consumers saw immediate gratification in their anti-aging quest. It was a boom for esthetics, who now had clients setting up monthly visits to get their acid fix as part of their facial. The results were impressive-plump, taut skin with a reduced appearance of wrinkles. Who wouldn't be hooked.
The problem, however, is that these results are only temporary, and in the long run they actually damage the skin and cause it to age faster than it would if we didn't use the harsh products and techniques. The reason is that when we apply retinoic acid and alpha hydroxy acids to the skin, we are causing inflammation-and inflammation is bad for the skin. When you apply an acid to your face-and this applies to almost every acid, depending on the concentration-you immediately create trauma. This trauma results in swelling. Swelling makes wrinkles and fine lines look better, but only temporarily. The other effect of these treatments is that they damage the epidermal barrier. The skin, being the intelligent defense mechanism that it is, sees this damage as an assault and seeks to fix the problem. In what is called an "emergency repair response," the skin rushes to repair the damaged epidermis, which speeds up the epidermal turnover rate. Unfortunately, many skincare experts assume that increased epidermal turnover is a good thing-evidence that the skin is returning to its youthful functioning-yet, this forced exfoliation is actually the skin's equivalent of a four-alarm fire. Ben Johnson, MD "Transform Your Skin Naturally", 2010, Chapter 2, pp. 21-22.
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Scientific research suggests that elevated levels of estrogen and progesterone can result in an increased growth of yeast in the body. Yeast is primarily housed in the digestive tract and may be culpable for as many as 30 percent of the acne cases seen on an annual basis. We can also increase yeast levels by eating sugar, which provides yeast populations with fodder to propagate. This propagation can then lead to imbalances in flora (healthy bacteria) that line our digestive tracts. This, in turn, allows for further yeast overgrowth.
The most common yeast population among Americans (relevant because of diet) is called Candida albicans, commonly referred to as Candida. Candida in associated with vaginal yeast infections and thrush. It may be a surprise but yeast infections originate in the intestine. When Candida levels fall out of balance, the yeast emits toxins that travel through the body via the body (via the blood stream) and result in a variety of physiological imbalances. If left unchecked, toxic yeast may rise up and disturb hormone production, impair immune function, and generally wreak havoc on many organs with the skin being the common victim. The use of antibiotics to treat acne (used to counteract the bacteria that feed of the sebum in the skin) can cause an additional suppression of the immune system plus negatively affect digestive health which will inevitability exacerbate the development of acne. In my opinion, the colon and its related toxin build up is the primary source of acne. Suffice it to say that acne could be greatly reduce to changes in one's diet, colonics and detoxes (do your research and consult your physician as appropriate). You may not know this...not all wrinkles are created equal. While wrinkles from sundamage and intrinsic aging can be improved, those from a process known as glycation cannot.
It is less widely known that blood sugar has an important bearing on the aging process. Unfortunately, in addition to being a vital cellular fuel, glucose is also a substance that can cause damage to cells and tissues by randomly reacting with proteins, DNA and other vital molecules. In the process called non-enzymatic glycosylation or glycation, glucose molecules attach themselves to proteins, setting in motion a chain of chemical reactions that ends in the proteins binding together or crosslinking, thus altering their biological and structural roles. The process is slow but increases with time. Advanced Glycosylation End products (AGEs), is the term given to Crosslinks of proteins like collagen and elastin, which seem to toughen tissues and may cause some of the deterioration associated with aging. AGEs have been linked to stiffening connective tissue (collagen), hardened arteries, clouded eyes, loss of nerve function, and less efficient kidneys. These are deficiencies that often accompany aging. AGEs exert their harmful effects on two levels. Most obviously, they physically impair protein, DNA and lipids, altering their chemical properties. They also act as cellular signals, triggering a cascade of destructive events when they attach to their cellular binding sites. The main binding site for AGEs is appropriately called RAGE (receptor for AGEs). The binding of AGEs to RAGE induces cellular activation and intracellular oxidative stress, AGE binding to RAGE tends to be self-amplifying, since the more AGEs bind to RAGE, the more RAGE binding sites develop. This creates a "positive feedback loop" leading to spreading waves of cellular activation and tissue damage. One happy finding is that the body has its own defense system against crosslinking. Just as it has anti-oxidants to fight free-radical damage, it has other guardians, immune system cells called macrophages, that combat glycation. Macrophages with special receptors for AGEs seek them out, engulf them, break them down, and eject them into the blood stream where they are filtered out by the kidneys and eliminated in urine. The only apparent drawback to this defense system is that it is not complete and levels of AGEs increase steadily with age. One reason is that kidney function tends to decline with advancing age. Is there an answer to glycation? Treatment is best started with prevention by diet control, reducing total calories, avoiding high sugar foods and not cooking at high temperatures. Supplements such as aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine, carnosine and benfotiamine are excellent glycation preventors. Carnosine levels decline with age, and now that many people are cutting down on meat - the main dietary source of carnosine - supplementation becomes expecially important. Expect to see carnosine in the 'new generation' of actives of the future. References: Beautymag Online, Glycosylation and the Ageing Process Peter T. Pugliese, MD, April 14, 2008, from the April 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine. It is often noticed that after menopause women begin to age faster. Wrinkles increase rapidly, akin quickly loses elasticity and smoothness. This seems to be a result from diminished levels of estrogen. Among the hormones whose levels decline with age, estrogens have the most dramatic effect in the skin. Estrogens are known to protect women from heart disease, and now it seems that they also slow down skin aging. Several studies indicate that postmenopausal woman on estrogen replacement therapy develop less wrinkles, better skin texture Dr. G. Todorov
Although moisturizing alone cannot significantly reduce the sign of aging, it is still a important component of any skin care regime...especially if you live in a dry climate or exercise regularly. Lack of water can interfere with proper cell metabolism and tissue repair. Dry skin has a diminished capacity to heal and renew itself and is more susceptible to skin infections and irritants. Well moisturized skin will help slow down aging and increase the effectiveness of other treatments. Moisturizing "DO NOT" list
Facial Aging
One cause of the appearance of visible skin aging is a degradation of the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). The ECM is a complex framework that supports and protects the cells of the dermis. A strong ECM must be present to shore up the skin’s outer appearance and health. The ECM is made up of structural proteins (collagen and elastin), adhesive proteins (laminins and fibronectin), glycosaminoglycans (GAG), and proteoglycans. A network of collagen fibers gives strength and structure to the skin, while elastin fibers give the skin the ability to stretch and return to its original shape. The GAG that surround this structure are: Hyaluronic acid, heparin sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparin, and dermatan sulfate. Hyaluronic acid, the most extensively studied GAG, can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water within the matrix, making skin healthy, plump, and youthful-looking. Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes are a main player in the breakdown of the ECM. MMP, such as collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase are responsible for the destruction of spent ECM components. Although a small amount of these enzymes are necessary for healthy skin, an over-production occurs in response to external damaging factors, predominantly UV exposure. Wrinkling, laxity, enlargement of pores, and loss of elasticity are exaggerated due to this ECM breakdown. More active melanogenesis and visible vascularity are also common as a direct result of UV exposure. The Dark Side of the Sun Unprotected sun exposure has been directly linked to collagen degradation, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, and most importantly… skin cancer. UV radiation is particularly damaging to the skin because it has been shown to not only increase levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), a particularly destructive free radical, but it also depletes the skin’s own natural antioxidant defense system. This makes the skin vulnerable in many ways as a result of sun exposure. It only takes one-tenth the amount of UV exposure to activate MMP enzymes as it takes to cause sunburn. This means that way before you think you have had any damage from the sun, you are already breaking down the critical support structure of the skin. Through time, pollution, and ultraviolet exposure, these MMP enzymes are slowly degrading the ECM. The inflammation from UV exposure is also responsible for stimulating the melanogenesis process that leads to hyperpigmentation. This process causes melanin-containing melanosomes to be deposited in parasol-like configurations over the nucleus of each affected keratinocyte to protect its DNA from potential mutation. This mutation is what leads to skin cancer, which accounts for 50 percent of all cancers in the U.S. An Ounce of Protection To avoid the negative effects of sun exposure, it is critical to use broad-spectrum sun protection products on a daily basis, not just when participating in outdoor sports or activities. UVB rays do diminish slightly in the winter months, but UVA rays are constant throughout the year and penetrate through windows and clothing. This fact illustrates why year-round daily use of sun protection is the ultimate in age defense. Using enough sunscreen is also important. Research states that an individual should use approximately one ounce of sunscreen to cover their entire body. Antioxidant Defense System To sufficiently protect skin from the damaging free radicals triggered by UV exposure, topical antioxidants should be added to every patient’s regimen, in addition to daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen. Some useful UV protective antioxidants to include are: Green Tea – Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is a powerful polyphenol found in green tea that is responsible for much of its excellent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cancer-prevention benefits. Research has shown that EGCG is able to reverse the immunosuppressive effects of UV rays, quench hydrogen peroxide radicals, and cause the destruction of skin cells that could potentially develop into tumors. EGCG has also been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation and prevent the formation of nitric oxide, hydroxyl radicals, and singlet oxygen. Resveratrol – Research has demonstrated that application of resveratrol prior to UVB exposure suppresses the production of hydrogen peroxide radicals and lipid peroxidation. Resveratrol also inhibits the activation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-kB), a protein complex that contributes to the formation of malignancies. Genistein – This polyphenol is derived from soybeans and effectively increases the activity of the skin’s natural antioxidant system. Genistein’s ability to prevent lipid peroxidation and free radical production and its inhibition of cell mutation and DNA damage makes it an important part of any anti-aging regimen. Additionally, studies highlight genistein’s ability to prevent both the short- and long-term effects of UV exposure, including erythema, skin cancer, and visible photoaging. Ergothioneine – This antioxidant is relatively new to the skin care industry, but its antioxidant benefits and its ability to increase the protective action of traditional antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, make it an excellent addition to skin care products. Studies have shown that ergothioneine reduces several forms of free radicals, including hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen, peroxynitrite, lipid peroxides, and nitric oxides. Caffeine – This ingredient is capable of reducing UV-induced free radicals, including hydroxyl radicals, hydrogen peroxide, peroxyl radicals, and singlet oxygen. Research also indicates that topical application of caffeine can reduce UV-induced skin cancers by forcing damaged skin cells into apoptosis (cell suicide). Silybin – Milk thistle-derived silybin is a powerful flavonoid antioxidant. Silybin inhibits lipid peroxidation and nitric oxide and hydrogen peroxide free radical production. It can also inhibit the immunosuppression and skin cancer caused by UV exposure, and decrease the cellular degradation caused by UV exposure. Suffocating the Skin In a study compiled by the Campaign for Tobacco-Free Kids in the fourth quarter of 2010, 46.6 million U.S. adults and 3.4 million high school students regularly smoke cigarettes. Even with much stronger policies on educating children about the dangers of smoking, 1,000 kids become regular smokers every day. The dangerous heart and lung diseases that are directly linked to smoking are widely known, but we do not have as strong of a dialogue about what smoking does to healthy skin. Smoking is a major contributor to many skin conditions and complications, such as skin discoloration, ECM breakdown, deep wrinkling, premature skin aging, poor wound healing, and the formation of abnormal skin growths. The nicotine in cigarette smoke causes vasoconstriction (blood vessel contraction). Additionally, the carbon monoxide present in cigarettes bonds with oxygen in the blood, greatly reducing the amount available to the body. This deadly combination of nicotine and carbon monoxide creates a situation where there are not only constricted capillaries trying to carry the oxygen, but also less oxygen flow through them. Smoking just one cigarette restricts blood flow for up to 90 minutes. This means there is a greatly reduced amount of oxygen passing through the skin. If a person smokes more than one cigarette in an hour and a half, then the time the skin goes without proper oxygenation is multiplied exponentially. Amazingly, once this restricted oxygen flow has persisted in the skin over time, the body attempts to get more blood to the skin by producing more blood vessels. Eventually, this leads to the telangiectasias that are characteristic of a condition known as “smoker’s skin.” Exposure to the pollutants present in cigarettes accelerates the degradation of the ECM by increasing MMP (specifically MMP-1) activity, causing the unwanted breakdown of healthy and necessary matrix components. Smoking is an avoidable environmental pollutant that compromises health and ages the skin prematurely. Breathing Life Back into the Skin Once someone has quit smoking there are treatments and topical ingredients that will help improve the skin. Professional detoxifying and oxygenating procedures promote circulation and oxygenation of the skin cells, which can dramatically improve skin tone. Ingredients like L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), retinoids (vitamin A), and certain peptides increase collagen deposition to strengthen the skin and minimize the wrinkling so common in smokers. Caper bud extract and some types of algae work to support and strengthen the capillaries and reduce their hyperpermeability (leakiness). Matrix metalloproteinase-inhibiting ingredients (MMPi) like resveratrol, soy proteins, epigallocatachin gallate (EGCG), sodium chondroitin sulfate, and L-ascorbic acid work to protect the ECM from the damaging effects of excess MMP activity. Superficial chemical peel treatments improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and greatly improve skin surface texture. There are many additional options available; however, nothing can replace the necessary oxygen for continued skin cell health better than simply quitting smoking. Healthy Skin for All Although every individual is a product of their heredity, and some types of facial aging are inevitable, the vast majority are preventable, avoidable, and correctable. Well-educated patients are more likely to be compliant with your directions for daily broad-spectrum sun protection use, antioxidant supplementation, and the avoidance of negative lifestyle choices like smoking. This then gives you the opportunity to help all your patients achieve all their healthy skin goals. Cheryl Staurowsky, LE, PCA skin® advanced educator, since 2003. Staurowsky lives in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. and began her career in medical aesthetics in 1994. While working with a variety of skin conditions and medical devices at multiple renowned physicians’ offices, she became skilled at customizing professional treatments and daily care regimens. Staurowsky has a passion for knowledge and educates her patients on the benefits of skin care and how a formulation actually works within the skin. Research suggests that appetite-regulating hormones are affected by sleep and that sleep deprivation could lead to weight gain. Two factors influence this.
First, during deep sleep, your brain secretes a large amount of a growth hormone, which tells your body how to break down food for fuel. Second, you probably eat more when you are tired. Therefore, without adequate sleep, you eat more and your body is incapable of breaking down the fat, thus weight gain happens. What can you do? You can start by going to sleep and waking up at the same time every day. Watch your caffeine and alcohol habits – no caffeine after 2:30 pm and no alcohol three hours before bed. Also start a bedtime routine. Create a pre-sleep ritual such as light reading, a hot bath, or stretching-beginning about 45 minutes before lights out. Remember to experiment with exactly how much sleep you really need. Increasing your sleep to what your body really needs not only gives you a thinner waistline, but also more energy! Today, from food consumption to face and body creams, we are bombarded with claims that antioxidants fight free radical damage. You may wonder what exactly you’re fighting and how…if so, you aren’t alone. Simply put, free radicals are loose electrons. Think back to chemistry, recall that molecules are made up of atoms, which contain protons, neutrons, and electrons. Damage to cells from environmental factors such as UV radiation or lifestyle choices like smoking disrupt the molecular configuration. Antioxidants are substances that help to protect cells from free radical damage. The protection comes from their interaction with the unstable molecules which basically neutralizes them and thus preventing cell damage. Vitamins A, C and E; green tea; lycopene; lutien; promegranate; and selenium, are all found in a variety of food sources and now available in over-the-counter skin care products. Also, recently coffee berry extra, the bright red fruit of the coffee bush is much richer and has the power to naturally prevent and repair skin damage caused by free radical exposure. Spin trap is the most powerful antioxidant known, milligram per milligram. It does not destroy the free radical (rogue oxygen), rather it traps it and escorts it back to the respiratory cycle where it is utilized in tissue respiration. Please note that the best way to prevent signs of aging is to protect yourself from sun damage.
Research suggests that appetite-regulating hormones are affected by sleep and that sleep deprivation could lead to weight gain. Two factors influence this.
First, during deep sleep, your brain secretes a large amount of a growth hormone, which tells your body how to break down food for fuel. Second, you probably eat more when you are tired. Therefore, without adequate sleep, you eat more and your body is incapable of breaking down the fat, thus weight gain happens. What can you do? You can start by going to sleep and waking up at the same time every day. Watch your caffeine and alcohol habits - no caffeine after 2:30 pm and no alcohol three hours before bed. Also start a bedtime routine. Create a pre-sleep ritual such as light reading, a hot bath, or stretching-beginning about 45 minutes before lights out. Remember to experiment with exactly how much sleep you really need. Increasing your sleep to what your body really needs not only gives you a thinner waistline, but also more energy! Vitamin A or retinol is one of the most effective and versatile treatments for your skin. It is used as a powerful skin treatment for aging, photo damage, acne, pigmentation or skin discoloration, and rosacea.
Vitamin A is an important factor in aging and plays a critical role in maintaining healthy skin. Unfortunately, Vitamin A is rapidly depleted by UV light, both UVA and UVB. Most of you who are exposed to UV light (even indoors, such as fluorescent lighting) will have quite a lot of vitamin A in their skin destroyed daily. This is why it is important to add this ingredient back into your skin through topical products. Another factor affecting our skin as we age is the slowing down of the cell renewal process. Adding Vitamin A to your skincare protocol helps to maintain a healthy pace of cell renewal, which gives your skin a beautiful glow. Acne patients benefit from Vitamin A by an increase in the cell renewal process. It also increases the sloughing process of the dead cells leaving the skin's surface. Keeping the skin's pores open and clear is essential for acne. Common forms of hyperpigmentation include melasma, freckles and post inflammatory skin discoloration. Vitamin A is one of the most effective treatments for these conditions. Similar to acne, it works by increasing the cell renewal process and sloughing off the skin to eventually diminish the discoloration. It is important to note that many pigmented lesions are produced throughout a long period of time and will not go away quickly. Vitamin A comes in several different ingredient formulations. The most readily available forms of Vitamin A include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinoic acid. Retinol is the most common form of Vitamin A. |
Welcome...to dermagrace cosmetic rejuvenation blog and information center. If you're looking for dramatic and long lasting skin improvements…look no further. My goal is to provide the most authoritative skin care protocols, research and articles. Everyday I search for relevant and reliable information. I look forward to any comments or questions. Archives
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